15 Nissan Altima s door locks .
Automatic door locks opening & closing constantly when making sharp turns & when temperature drops below 32 it happens more frequently! Thanks!
Does changing the water in a steam heat boiler really shorten the boiler's life? A steam heat system exhausts trapped air and admits new oxygenated air on every boiler kick on cycle. So if new, oxygenated, water is added (say to make up water due to a radiator leak somewhere) there is no difference in corrosion causing chemical behavior, no?
PT Cruiser Electrical Problem
I have a 2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser. Over the last six months, a progressive electrical problem has gotten worse (now to where it's undrivable). Taking it to the mechanic this week, and I'd like to get a general idea of the problem and not go in blind. In the past, I've had quirky little electrical glitches pop up, like lights on the dashboard (with no corresponding code), windshield wipers triggering for no reason, etc. Over the last six months, the car has started dying, to where I needed to give it a jump with my portable car-starter. Usually, it would fire right back up. Now, we've been having issues with the headlights and the radio flickering while driving it (like someone is flipping a light switch off and on). A few times, it has died on the highway while driving, then kicked right back on and kept going. Now I have to jump it with my other car, just to get it started. It's definitely not the battery, I've been through two of those, and they tested all and said they were fine. Any thoughts?
Burnham x205 Wiring hook up questions
Just installed my first "small" boiler system, replacing a giant 1970s Hydro-therm. I believe I have all my plumbing and gas hooked and ready to go but I'm a little unsure when it comes to the electrical for the pump and boiler. This system has "only one zone running around a 2300sgft house. The old system was wired for the pump to run 110v - 24/7 on its own. The boiler had "no" electric going to it (constant pilot), and the thermostat was an old simple 2 wire. I have hooked up the 110 to the new boiler system. My questions are: the thermostat wires on the unit are both yellow, does it make any difference what goes to what? Then does the pump run on its own 110v line like it used to running 24/7 or does it run back from the main board going on and off as the system calls for it? I'm not a schematics guy and no one was willing to do boilers in my area, they all wanted to install the new High Eff style. Thanks
Trane XE 70 no longer heating
The heat from my Trane XE 70 stopped working. When I turn the thermostat on, I get the initial click from the relay but no flame and no click click click click........ So I dug up the schematic (haven't looked at a schematic since the Air Force, 30+ years ago) and I think I found a voltage issue at the pilot relite (White Rodgers 5059-41), which is getting 24V at T1 but nothing at T2. It seems that the 24V that should be going to T2 should be coming from the gas valve but I'm not sure. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance! Image: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1650x1602/agv_auto_gas_valve_40440c8c3ecb98f60681024d94f600233c6d7c40.jpg Image: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20221204_202537_af4cd78e9c8bdc01ad3284a5835aebc76e48cc1e.jpg Image: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20221204_202525_515d93bfba322d86b3f353883e007403fa74dbb7.jpg Image: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20221204_154945_454f52723b19a352f95e26f30db8f49845e6db5f.jpg Image: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20221204_121643_05e69994ac8837148acdcee932ca508c4a611d0f.jpg
Old Airco Furnace Pilot Keeps Going Out
I have an old Airco furnace I use to heat my garage. The pilot keeps going out. I follow the instruction to relight (see image) and it lights fine but then after a while goes out. I don't know a lot about furnaces but from what I can see there isn't any or very little electronics in this furnace so wondering if it's a part that needs to be replaced and if so what? Thanks! Image: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/750x1000/317237320_2381727678656862_6854358080973331850_n_4d2b30826b2c128d3251883ee035e855a61c466a.jpg Image: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/750x1000/317923101_494275079435723_82613780745883255_n_55e7a3c32928415b8ab93c4d9c64e31cee6ef5a6.jpg Image: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/750x1000/317326194_518634610319253_8862079300279556226_n_b20e07fd9cc8a62957cf2ea26f52cb9509c73977.jpg
Sealing gap between top plate and ceiling / drywall
I recently finished installing a drywall ceiling in my garage, overall it came out nicely (especially as I had never hung a single sheet of drywall before). However, there is now a gap of around 1" (a little bigger in some spots) where the drywall is screwed to the roof trusses and the top of the block walls that I would like to seal off to help retain heat in the garage and keep rodents out. I had looked at possibly using cans of expanding foam, but as I read a little into them, the can needs to be help upside down, which is not possible since the drywall will prevent the can being held in such a manner. Another thread someone had mentioned extending the straw with vinyl tubing, but the poster who was asking about the foam replied that this did not work (the foam I believe expanded in the tubing and pushed it off the can). However, I am wondering if maybe using the vinyl tubing, only a foot or two, maybe less, pushed onto the end of the straw, with the straw still screwed to the can, would allow me to hold the can out away from the ceiling, upside down, and use the tube to guide the foam where it needs to go. But, is this the simplest option? The walls are just plain cinder block, no plans in the near term to frame them, so need to figure out a solution that will work with the ceiling and block as they are Thanks.
Older kenmore dryer buzzes only after pushing the start cycle button
I had just finished a drying cycle & tried running another load with the aforementioned result. MODEL # 110.86581110.
Gas pressure washer vibration mount material
I ordered some of these but realized they were too short to fit through the engine block. Does someone sell rigid heavy duty rubber like this but in a length I can cut to length? I figured I'd get the appropriate sized ID/OD washers and use 3/8'' hex head bolts to bolt it all together. I got replacement wheels and tires for the washer that were the same spec'd size but they are too big and rub under the exhaust. Raising the whole engine will allow for the proper clearance. Thanks! Image: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/300x242/image_bd0bdbbb37e158c09c67b11a2039ff79ebac03f9.png
Natural gas heater help
I have 2 rooms that need supplement heat. I sized and installed all the gas line according to code and pressure tested for leaks. I only have one heater installed now, waiting for other in mail. The room I don't have a heater for I ran the line and capped it. When I try to light the heater the pilot goes out as soon as I lift my finger off control knob, pilot will stay on as long as I keep control down. I noticed the pilot flame does not reach the thermocouple causing pilot to go out. I shut off my furnace and tried to light the heater, the pilot was now working properly. I let it run for 20 minutes and then kicked on my furnace, heater then went out. I'm wondering if I need to call gas company and have them increase pressure or what may be the issue. I bled the air from heater, furnace, and hot water tank. I didn't bleed the pipe I capped for the other heater I don't have yet, do I still need to crack the cap in order to bleed it even though there's no appliance hooked up? Wondering if maybe air in that line would affect this heaters performance. The heater uses a 630 eurosit. Any input is much appreciated, thanks!
Please help me ID this rodent
Been hearing this guy running around my attic and walls for the last two weeks. Set out some snap traps and he set them off but didn't get caught - so now he's extra careful. I decided to leave them for a few nights unset to let him get comfortable with them. Anyways-finally got him caught on camera. It doesn't look like a standard house mouse to me. I'm thinking maybe deer mouse? Or is this a chipmunk? I know he's been moving acorns around - so definitely not house mouse? Also they're usually active at night - but I have heard during the day too. I just can't tell if it's a mouse or chipmunk from these. Anyone have an idea? Thanks! Video 1 (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hz_AP8NKcpWiSJnGpZE_Hbo2Vwo9HHk2/view?usp=drivesdk) Video 2 (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I2OiFfrcsft7CKhAPH46jk0ohVvnMHDg/view?usp=drivesdk) Image: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/480x422/chippy_623208b12f1cc69592f9677840fbbcfa739c582d.jpg
Lennox gas furnace not igniting
I have a lennox G24M3/4-100A-2 forced air gas furnace. Recently it has started to not light and then go into watchguard mode. After resetting, and then calling for heat, the draft inducer kicks on and a few seconds later I hear the electric spark of the ignitor clicking but the burners won't fire up. I thought maybe the gas valve wasn't turning on, so to check if there was gas, I manually lit the burners with a lighter and the burners would fire up like they should. The furnace would then run normally until it reaches the set temperature on the thermostat and then turns off like it should. When it calls for heat again it repeats the cycle of going into watchguard mode. I can keep the furnace running if I light the burners manually with a lighter each time it calls for heat after resetting the watchguard mode. I cant directly see the spark on the ignitor because the burner is in the way but I see the light of the spark going off and on when its making the clicking sound. Its almost like the ignitor is producing too weak of a spark to ignite the gas. Thinking the ignitor was bad I ordered and installed a new ignitor but it didnt resolve the issue. Any ideas on what is causing this problem?
Drilling into top plate for ethernet
Hi - I am trying to run ethernet from my attic, down the wall, and into a keystone jack. I did some measurements and started to drill a hole in the top plate where I calculated would be in between 2 studs. I used a regular 3/4" spade bit but as I drilled i kept hitting wood as far as my drill bit would go. 1) How deep should I have to drill into the top plate before I get into the wall cavity? I have a much longer flex bit I can use but before I drill further I wanted to ask about the depth. Im not sure if I just need to drill a bit further or if I've miscalculated and am just drilling down vertically into the stud.