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Electric heat/ heat pump only working on Aux after blower motor replacement
PLEASE HELP! Image: These are pictures I took to use as reference. They may not be much help but they're what I've got 😞 Image: Image: Image: Image: This is the motor the service guy said was a direct replacement. Image: Aux heat only ( and A/C ) After blower motor and capacitor replacement.

Coleman DGRT070AUA furnace will not work - only pilot works
The pilot stays lit. Checked thermostat on wall and tried jumping, nothing. Replaced batteries just i case. Checked voltage on each transformer, good according to spec sheet. Checked two sensor on front body by wiring and one up by the blower. All good. Pulled the air dam motor and voltage coming off gas body, reads 24 volts. I did notice that the motor flap seems to be in the closed position which cuts voltage it appears to gas body - only the one side gets the 24 volts as the motor switch cuts it off. I did pull the allen screw plug on the side of the gas body (says gas vent) and no gas is coming out. Could it be the gas body? How does one check that. Hate to throw money until something works. Anyways, need some guidance. Thanks.

Washer shut off valves
My multi-turn washer valves were leaking so I replaced them with 1/4 boiler drain valves from the Home depot. They were Everbilt 102-053EB, see this link: After I finished installing them I see this warning on the sticker that they are not to be used for water for human consumption. Now, I don't intend to drink from these these valves, but my question is could they contaminate the drinking water at the faucets in the rest of the house? Thanks

Bumper damage
A relative I will be visiting at Christmas recently had a mishap that led to bumper damage on her 2012 Toyota. We have to decide whether to file an insurance claim before I can see it firsthand, but from the photo below, it looks to me like a handy person could probably do a 90 percent fix that makes the car completely functional without much difficulty. The bumper got pulled down 2-3 inches on one side after it caught the side of the garage door as the car was being pulled out. My guess is that the bumper itself is not damaged, and that there are brackets that can be pounded back to near their original position so as to raise the bumper up. If anyone out there with auto body work experience has an opinion, I’d appreciate hearing it. We got one proposal for a complete repair for $2,000. Thanks. Image:

Interlogix NX-8v2 Double Zoning
I have a NX-8V@ control panel that I turned on the double zoning feature. Then I went to location 28 and just turned on Zone 9 & Zone 10 since I only need two more Zones. It indicates to use 3.74K resistors for lower zones and 6.98K for upper zones. I need to know if I should use these resistors only on zone 9 & zone 10 that i turned on or should I put the 3.74K resistors on all zones except Zone 8 which is a Fire Zone. In other words did it double all the zones or just the two I turned on.

Identifying issues in back of boiler
Our 90-year old home is radiant heated by way of a 13-year old Slant Fin GG 75 HXPED boiler. Last year we had our annual boiler inspection and the service provider (before replacing all the metal panels around the unit) had me look from behind and pointed towards the back of the unit while it was operating to what seemed to be a seam that the flames of the unit had a slight glow to while it was turned on. He said it showed a normal wearing away of what he called a back gasket(??)... but is this not just a seam in a back assembly jacket (looked at Slant Fin specs but can't see such an identifier) and is it not normal to see a bit of illumination come through such a seam anyway? He said that the unit was safe for at least another year, but we could be looking at having to get a new unit soon re: possible co2 leaks. He claimed that the replacement of what he was calling a gasket would be a couple grand $$$, so it was more worth while to replace the entire unit as everything else would be wearing away over time. Our unit has shown no other issues and we were hoping to get at least another 2-4 years out of this before a costly replacement has to be done. Do you think he was raising a legitimate safety concern on his part or more of a scare tactic sales push to get us to buy a new unit through his company now? I ask because this week he will be coming in for this years inspection and I want to be able to address what he may be claiming with a more informed background than I currently have.

Outlet Wiring Question
I'm replacing standard 15A outlets. When I disconnected the one pictured, 4 wires had been backstabbed - 2 black on one side and 2 white on the other. Looks like the black line feeding into the box had been cut producing two leads; same for white. My new outlet is pictured. Am I ok to connect all 4 leads - 2 black to the 2 brass screws and the 2 white leads to 2 silver screws? Thanks. Image: Image:

Fishing wire behind cabinets
I'm trying to run some romex up to the top of my cabinets for a power supply for under cabinet lighting. (it's the best place to hide all that.) Then I'll run the low voltage wire back down in a space behind the cabinets, but not in the wall. Problem is that my garage is in the other side of the wall, so it's insulated. And I can't think of a way to get a wire fishing rod down from above the cabinets to the light switch box. I've cut a narrow hole in the drywall. Any taller of a hole and it starts to show the hole from down below. (I mean I guess I may have to patch a hole later, but was trying to avoid it) The angle that I have to insert my rod at makes it go into the middle of the insulation, rather than hugging the drywall. How can I fish this wire behind these cabinets? Last resort is that I just punch through to the garage and run it up the garage wall then punch back through over the cabinets. And just have a bare wire on the garage wall lol. Image: Need to go from the light switch below to the top of the short cabinet. (the stud is on the right of the light switch so there's no stud wetween where I need to go.) Image:

Slant fin furnace c wire
Hi! I am totally new in everything home related. We wanted to install a new thermostat. There is only a red wire and white wire coming out. We looked on the boiler and seen there was a blue yellow and green wire that was unused but I have no clue on where it would be hooked up at in the boiler. Can anyone help?! Image: Image: Image: Image: ?!

Brand New Roof - Drip Edge issues
Entire Roof replaced last week. Noted that the drip edge in several places is 'bowed'. What I mean is the area you can see is not flush to the facia in a number of areas. Roofer agreed and is working on alternative drip edge supplier and will replace the drip edge. Looks to be some sort of issue with the rolling at manufacture. Now I'm worried that the act of replacing the drip edge may end up damaging the shingles. He seems ok in that it can be done and has done it in the past. Any thoughts, gotchas, go ahead and do it, don't do it and leave it alone as it is just an appearance issue? I don't want to end up with something more serious than what I have now. Thanks

Anyone versed in windows installation?
So I'm trying to install win7 from an external DVD drive and it gives me that error about it "unable to create system partition" so I tried to copy the DVD to the hard drive but it said "access denied". How should I proceed? Thanks

Opener switch voltage
My daughters GDO is dead. I'm trying to help her troubleshoot by phone. It is a Genie 3/4 hp worm drive. It has power at the power head and we want to check for power at the switch. The switch is a SPDT toggle. Does anyone know what voltage to expect?

2008 infinity G35x valve stems leaking
2 original metal valve stems leaking, tire goes flat in 2 days. The other 2 stems were replaced by dealer about 2 years ago, who also replaced 1 of the TPM’s. They originally told me, prior to that, that I needed 3 TPMs replaced at a cost of $1k. I told them “no thanks” and dealt with the light being in and just monitored tire pressure the old fashion way. My question, if I am replacing valve stems, should I at this point replace sensors, or just put old sensors back on, as they appear to be working? Also, if the light is not coming on, does that mean the sensors are working? Could they have been removed by dealer completely to bypass the light from coming on? Or would the light come on if it doesn’t get a reading for one of the sensors? These sensors only indicate if pressure is low, it doesn’t give a pressure readout, and doesn’t tell you which tire is triggering g the light. I don’t currently drive the car and plan on selling it.

Canít find neutral or ground
I just got a Lutron motion sensor switch to replace a light switch in the bathroom but when I opened it, the switch only has 2 wires connected to it. There are about 4 other wires from the wall but capped with each other. The house was built in 1999 so it’s not that old but all the wires are white and no other colors. Is it possible one of them is ground or neutral and can I use the new switch or am I just out of luck?

Can I use the remote light switch to run my jacuzzi?
MOES WiFi Smart Light Switch No Neutral Wire, No Capacitor Will this switch work with a jacuzzi tub? Need a switch that doesn’t have a neutral because wiring just interrupted hot wire to replace old school(1990’s) mechanical timer. Switch is far from tub (other side of bathroom) so water sprays everywhere when I get in or out. Want to be able to turn on/off using remote or phone while in tub. Concerned about load. Says it’s rated for 1000 watts.